 Checking out RC4WD's Clodbuster Axle Tubes I beat my truck fairly hard and ever since I got this classic Bennett Clod-A-Lever my only real complaint was keeping the front axle together in one functional piece. Tube and knuckle breakage plagued this truck nearly every run. I seen these browsing RC4wd's site and when I seen these, my first thought was "there is the answer to all my problems". So I got a set of these to try out. First off the shipping was fast and packaging was good. They shipped in a nice padded envelope, and all the parts were contained in 1 plastic baggy labeled with the part number.  And all the individual pieces were also in their own little baggies.  Taking the parts out of the bags you can see they have a nice finish, but some machine marks were visible, but that was not of much concern because I do run this truck, and hard at times. But overall for a runner, these definitely look top notch.  Here you can see how much more beefier the RC4wd units are in comparison to the OE Clod parts. The steering arms off the knuckles are just about double what the stock ones are.  First off you need to remove the front axle from your truck. I will not cover this process due to the vast amount of after market chassis available and all will come apart differently.  Once the axle is out, remove the knuckles,  and place all you parts in an organized manner. I use this plastic tub to keep everything in one spot.  Now separate the gear box by removing the motor and all the screws around the perimeter of the gear case.  In the picture above, in the left case you can see 4 screw, they need to be removed to take the axle tube off the gear case. There are nuts on the outside next to the tube also. Hold the nuts and take the screws out, then pull the tube out of the case.  Next remove the inner E-clip that retains the shaft and pull the shaft out.  Next, install the new bearings which are supplied with the RC4wd tubes into the tubes and place the axle shaft through the tube. Finally re-install your E-clip onto the shaft.  The process for the outer axle shafts in the knuckles is just the same. Only I found that the knuckles are slightly narrower than the OE pieces allowing some slop in the shaft. To remedy this I just placed a single washer between the outer bearing and the E-clip, as seen in this picture. Also, remove the 2 screws that hold the steering arms to the main knuckle assembly and put a drop of Loctite or equivalent per screw and replace.  Next is install the knuckles onto the tubes, here is were it gets very different from stock. RC4wd took these up a notch and instead of standard king pin screws, they utilize bearings in the pivot points. First off you need to install the bearings into the tube's "C". From there place 1 derlin spacer against 1 bearing, place the knuckle over the axle end and start the screw into the knuckle down through the bearing and spacer. Now place the other spacer between the knuckle and "C". This is a snug fit but they do fit. Now place a small drop of loctite or equivalent on the second screw and tighten. Now remove the first screw and do the same.  Once together you can start to see ho much tighter you will be able to turn. As a matter of fact, it looks like it is at the maximum angle with the stock shafts. If you use CVDs, you could trim a little off the back of the knuckles for even tighter turning.  turning angle compared to stock? well a lot. My knuckles were modified the same way everyone does with the cut off the stops to allow a tighter radius, and these RC4wd units provide and even tighter radius right out of the package.  Now you are ready to install the RC4wd units onto the gear cases. This where they were thinking while designing these, the mounting holes on the tubes are threaded, no more nuts outside the case to worry about, and you reuse the original hardware.  However, once again I added a drop of Loctite to each screw.  Now the stock hardware is a little long so the screws do stick out, but I did not worry about it since this is a basher/runner. Now for a shelf queen, just install some shorter screws and you are golden. Now for some extra hold you could still use the nuts on the outside, but I did not.   After you have both sides completed, just reinstall your gear set, and reassemble the axle in reverse order from the tear down. Here are a few pictures of the completed assembly from different angles.    Here you can see how much throw the steering now has. It is a great improvement.   A few shots of the axle reinstalled on the chassis. The RC4wd tubes and knuckles look so nice with the polished Bennett chassis I believe I will order another set for the rear. I've never broke a tube on the rear, and only broke 1 knuckle, so the main purpose for me placing them out the back would be cosmetic. But what they will add visually will be worth it.    And a few pictures of the completed truck with the RC4wd tubes and knuckles installed.    And a few full throw shots of the steering.    Overall this is a great product. Installation is very simple and straight forward. If you have ever replaced a stock knuckle and axle tube, you can easily install these. Even if you have never done it, you can. I am very pleased with them They look fantastic on this truck. Next is the thrash test. Look for that in a few days. Well since installing the RC4wd Clod Super CNC Alum Axle Tubes & Knuckles I've put quite a few packs through this truck pushing to and a little beyond it's limits of torture. I've been know for beating my truck pretty hard, but I've never abused one as much as I have this truck for this particular test. The very first pack was run at aprox. 2:30 am after finishing the install so no pictures from this test, but first impressions were very good. But sadly, the first run was cut short due to failure, but not of the RC4wd parts, but my own steering links. They are steel threaded rod sleeved with steel brake line tube and Traxxas rod ends. I sheered the rod end off, bent the link in the middle and the other screw through the other knuckle bent and stripped the nut off.   But the RC4wd parts held up just fine. Had I still had the truck equipped the the OE plastic parts, there would have been some serious damage, guaranteed there would have been a broken tube on that one. It just landed weird on one tire. Now later that day I proceeded to run another 5 batteries though this truck, each pack taking it up a notch. I started off just running through the yard hitting some natural bumps and jumps that launched the truck pretty good for what they were. Had to take a break though in the second pack of the day to Loctite the screws that attach the steering arms to the knuckles which I did not do during the initial assembly. But after I let it dry a short time I was back outside. I then proceeded to use the down spout drain pipe as something to jump. I put nothing up to this pipe, I just come at it about 1/2 to 3/4 throttle and just as the front tire touch it I snap it to full throttle. This makes the truck jump it in similar manner to what you see with real monster trucks when thy hit a stack of cars, good bit of air with the truck standing nearly straight up. Here are a few pictures of the pipe. First to show how big the pipe is in comparison to the truck.      The next few packs I stepped it up again. I went next door to the school and ran it there. In the grassy areas the curb is higher than the ground level. Some areas it's only about in inch or so, other areas can be up to 5 inches, maybe more. but when flying through the grass, hitting that curb launches the truck in the air in a spectacular manner.       And there were a good many harsh landings since I was trying to both drive and shoot pictures. Several times, such as in that last picture, it landed in such a manner that it caused the truck to flip and roll in a violent manner. The front tire would hit the ground and grab while the rest of the truck was still in the air and moving. But the tubes and knuckles took the abuse and begged for more. So a couple more packs later I wanted to try and see how much of a curb I could hit and cause the truck to launch. So in the grassy areas I kept trying larger and larger curbs. I found one by complete accident that darn near stopped the truck dead in its tracks. I was nearly at full speed and the curb was much larger than expected, hidden by tall grass, the truck hit, made a horrific thud and then the rear end proceeded to lift in the air while the front stayed firmly planted against the curb until the truck was on it's roof on the blacktop. I cringed at this experience, that is until I picked up the truck to find nothing wrong with it! I was very impressed. I was sure something would have broke. The battery shifted forward and the electronics were knocked loose but no damage. So I kept running. Went over to were the loading dock is and there is a curb there that varies in size from side to side. hit the smaller one to launch it and it jumped straight up and landed on the tailgate where it just stood as it was posing for the camera.   Finally, I figured the ultimate test would be a flight of concrete and steel stairs. Taken at a moderate speed should keep it upright and create a fasted repeated pace of blows to the front axle. Well 3/4 of the way down since I was still trying to take pictures I lost it and it turned into the wall and then rolled down the last 6 or so stairs. 
 and again nothing broke. About this time it was getting dark out so I finished the test in the dark with one more pack. I tried just about everything I could, more large curbs, more stairs, more jumps, more violent rolls, and well, the axle tubes and knuckles took it all with out even a blink. I'm very impressed with this product and will highly recommend these to any basher that has ever broken axle tubes. I was even a little concerned that I may break the stock gearboxes, but that has not happened yet. But even if they would, RC4wd Clod Super CNC Alum Axle Tubes & Knuckles Held up great, and still look great too. As for how the rest of the truck held up, well I'll let the pictures explain that.        |